Improvement in sewing-machines



NETTLETON L RAYMOND.

Sewinglvlachne. i No. 17,049. Patented April 14, -1857.

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N. PETERS. Pnowmnagnphar. wnhingtun. DA c.

y UNITED STATES PATENTA OFFICE.

VVILLFORD H. NETTLETON AND OHS.` RAYMOND, OF BRISTOL, CONNECTICUT,

ASSIGNORS TO HENRY E. FIOKETT, OF GLENN S FALLS, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part ofLetters Patent No. 17,049, dated Apri 14, 1857.

To all whom it may concern,.-

Beit known that we, WILLEORD H. NET- TLEToN and CHARLEs RAYMOND, both of Bristol, in the county of Hartford and State of Connecticut, have invented, made, and applied to use certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines5` and we do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description 4of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making part of this specification, wherein- Figure 1 is a side elevation ofthe machine. Fig. 2 is a planof the' same with the upper parts removed, and the bed-plate also partly I` the cloth has atendency to stretch the said cloth widthwise, and avoid any puckering that might arise from the feeding'apparatus. In the drawings, a is the bed of the machine,

f suitably shaped `or ornamented.

b is a box-standard containing the drivingshaft and cams, and w is an arm supporting the working parts above the bed.

c is the main or driving wheel, propelled by ahandle or other suitable device, and rotates the main shaft and crank d, which plays in a slot in the arm 1, and gives a vibrating inotion to the rock-shaft 2, set in bearings 33,

` causing the arm e to ascend and descend and propel the needle-bar, as next set forth.

- 4 is a socket receiving a suitable needle, to which the same is secured by the screw 5, and said socket is on thev end of the needle-bar g, which slides in the pipe 7L, set onan arm from the vibrating shaft i. This shaft t' is set in bearings 7 7, and provided with a spring, 15, that always tends to throw the depending arm k toward the cam Z on the main shaft, (see Fig. 4,) and the amount of motion given to said arm, shaft, and needle is regulated by a setscrew, 8, the point of which, taking the cam Z sooner or later, regulates the extent that the arm k is pressed away from the frame, and consequently the length of stitch. The parts are so timed and the cams so shaped, that the needle descends through the cloth, and then the cam Z comes into operation to move the needle sidewise and feed the cloth along the desired amount, and retain the needle in that position until the same has been drawn out clear of the cloth, when the cam t passes clear of the screw-point 8, and the arm` 7:; is forced toward the standard b, and the needle returned to place, ready for taking another stitch. If the needle alone were used as a feed, as has heretofore been done, the power required for feeding the cloth would be apt to blend the needle, particularly such needles as are used for fine sewing. We have therefore introduced `the feeding-points 6 6, attached to lthesocket 4, which passes down and into the cloth at the timev the needle reaches its extent of downward motion, and feed the cloth along by the sidewise motion of the needle carriage or bar, and entirely relieve the needle.

u is apressbar kept down onto the cloth by a spring, 20, and said bar is formed as a lever on afulcrum, 19, so that it can be raised for inserting the articles to be sewed, and the under side of said press-bar, on each side of the slotin which the needle and feeding-points operate, is formed with grooves 21, diverging from each other, as seen in Fig. 5, so that as the cloth is fed along the divergence of the grooves stretches the seam widthwise, rendering the seam flat and preventing any puckering or wrinkling by the needle-feed points.

mis a cam (see Fig. 4) properly placed and shaped to act on a lever, 9, on the shaft a, set in bearings 10, and provided with a suitable spring, p, to keep the lever 9 to the cam m.

` o is a lever at the other end of the shaft a, connected to a slide, o, in which a slot, 11, is formed, as seen in Fig. 2, with astr'aight part, and then a diagonal part at the end next the needle. 12 is a pin in this slot, passing into the bed of the machine. The end of this slide ois formed with an 'arm to receive the stitcher or looper r, which has an eye, 14, and a notch, 18. (See also Fig. 6.) l

s is a spool supplying thread to the needle,

and the thread passes through the end of a .l vfrom the needle being given the varm by a stahelical 'relieving-spring, '16, and through a guide, 17, on the needle-bar g.

t is a spool supplying thread through the end of the helical relieving-spring 18 to the eye of the stitcher or looper r. Y

The spools being confined by the necessary force from a spring and nut or similar means, the operation is as follows: The needle in descending passes into the notch 13 of the looper.v The said looper then is forced diagonally backward by the slot and pin 12, and then back the required distance to leave a loop around the needle. At this moment the lever 9 is relieved from the cam m, and the looper takes a stitch or loop from the side of the needlethread, which is left over the looper as the needle ascends and the first loop is dropped by said needle, and thus the sewing progresses, forming loops on one side and stitches through the material sewed.

In cases where but one thread is to be used we substitute the looper o, Fig. 7, for the looper 7". This looper o is formed with the notch 13, `into which the needle descends through the -place of said slide o the rock-shaftmJ might `be placed on the other side and carry the vlooper r or o on the end of an arm, the sidewise motion to clear the notch in the looper tionary cam, as aforesaid.4

We do not claim a single or double loop stitch, as that is well known; neither do we claim a needle-feed, as this has also been used; neither do we claim the slide-cam o and slot 11 in themselves, as these have before been used; and we are well aware that diverging grooves have been used for stretching the cloth widthwise in shearing and similar machinery; but we are not awarev that the press-bar has ever before been grooved in the manner shown to prevent the lneedle puckering the Y cloth as it is fed along in the manner shown.

Therefore What we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. Forming the face ofthe press-bar neXt the material to be sewed with diverging grooves .to keep the cloth stretched widthwise and prevent puckering under the operation of the'` needle, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

2. The looper r or o, formed with the notch In `witness whereof we have hereunto set our signatures this 6th day of January, 1857.

WILLFORD H. NETTLETON. CHARLES RAYMOND.

Witnesses:

H. E. Fronnfrfr,

GEO. E. FERRY. 

